I went on my first community walking tour of the South Side of Providence this late September. Walked “La Broa” una calle que yo creía que conocía hasta que conocí su historia.

I did not know that the first Latino family moved here in the mid 50’s!

Eramos cuatro personas caminando (Marta Martínez, Orlando Hernández, Marcel Mascaró y yo) and by the looks of it we were styled similarly like some type of Providence hybrid pop indie group. A banner in a well kept yard caught our attention, it read “Latino Chess Club Founded in the 70’s"

A woman peeped us looking into the yard, no dijo nada y entro a su casa. Al minuto salió un Señor con una sonrisa de lo más amable, Y dijo “María me dijo que había unos Americanos mirando el patio.”

Mind you we were all Latinx una Cubana una Mexicana un Boricua y un Dominicano. Have we been in downtown for so long, que ya pareciamos Americanos!

(Side Note)
En esa misma semana yo acababa de obtener un trabajo que todavía no había comenzado. En una Industria en la cual yo nunca había directamente trabajado. Imposter syndrome was reigning. Yo tenia unos nervios, me sentía inseguro para decir poco.

(Back to the Story)
Manuel Jiménez nos comenzó a contar su historia, nos contó que llegó a Providence cuando tenía 29 años en los 70’s. Se dedicaba a la agricultura en un campo de la República Dominicana. Cuando llegó, consiguió un trabajo en una factoría en el cual solo pudo aguantar las condiciones del trabajo por una semana. He was offered an opportunity to learn English at an African American organization who was helping newly arrived immigrants learn English while getting paid a stipend. Manuel learned some English and in a few months he was coming toward the end of his course. The instructors at the center said to him that they would appoint him to be a social worker. Manuel miró para los dos lados, “Como quien dice, Yo??!” He only had farming experience back home and knew nothing about being a social worker, but he took the chance.

He listened to the community in his new role. He noticed that the community’s main complaint was that there were no Spanish interpreters in the nearby hospitals (St. Joseph’s Hospital and Rhode Island Hospital). Manuel was part of a group that organized a silent protest in the hospital demanding that they get Spanish interpreters in the hospitals. It took time but the group eventually got the FIRST! Spanish interpreters in the hospitals of the South Side of Providence. They later moved the fight to DMV and made changes there.

Aquí hubo un hombre cual la vida le puso una gran oportunidad y responsabilidad en sus manos, la acepto/lucho y mira lo tanto que logró por su gente y por generaciones to come.

He did it, why can't I? Thank you, Manuel Jimenez, for the inspiration. Teleported elder wisdom.

Love, Kufa

Manejar la Cranston Street no es facil, it feels like you have just traveled back to Santo Domingo en hora pico. But something is for sure, it is a street that is alive but it’s pulse can only be felt once you get out of your vehicle and walk it.

We finally decided to walk Cranston St. as part of our community walking tours of the West End of Providence. Joann Ayuso, who lives on the square of Dexter Park, or el parque del castillo, joined Marta Martinez and myself.

We all had our own connection to Cranston street.

I had worked there for a year running a cell phone shop where I sold mixtapes back in the day, and Joann knew about a delicious Puerto Rican bakery on the street.

The street is rich in restaurants and everything else you might need. There are Mexican and Dominican restaurants, food trucks, pizzerias y barbershops de cada lado de la calle.

We entered “Sky Market” a South East Asian market where I saw the biggest Jackfruits that I have ever seen, and cooking ingredients I had yet to set eyes on. We window shopped and still got smiles from everyone that worked there. We will be back.

To end our walk we entered Carmita’s Puerto Rican Bakery. Joann, who is of Puerto Rican descent, I heard speak full on Spanish for the first time since I’ve met her, when she entered the space. The couple that attended the bakery were as sweet as the desserts they baked. The Señor who came to bring my pressed pork sandwich to the table laid his left hand on my back and said “Papi quieres algo de tomar” in such a tender way that I felt like family. The bakery felt like a portal into our childhood.

Volveremos la próxima semana, hopefully we will meet someone who has lived there for a long time and can tell us cuentos of “La Cranston.”

- Kufa

Joann Ayuso and I return to Cranston Street on this unusually sunny, yet typically chilly February-Saturday morning. We meet up at 10am at our “usual spot” — on the Parade side of Dexter Training Grounds, at the picnic table in the playground area. We wait only a few minutes for any other participants, and then head North on Cranston Street.

On Parade Street there are primarily private homes. Cranston Street is mostly lined with businesses and a few vacant lots. Not many steps in, we approach 475 Cranston Street and the Ebenezer Baptist Church — a majestic, brown-stone building that is larger than life! Joann comments that the stained-glass windows look amazing from the outside, and imagines the inside is even more breath taking. Historical records show that Ebenezer is one of the largest and most active African-American congregations in the city. 

As we keep walking, I think about some of the vacant lots and homes around me. When some people walk past a vacant house, they are likely to speed their steps and pass it quickly. Vacant properties, especially those that are long vacant, can make some people feel unsettling and unsafe. They detract from the appearance of the neighborhood, can attract crime and, as they deteriorate, lead to unsafe conditions and bring down surrounding property values.

But today, what I see is local life and people, just awakening possibly from a long night, walking casually through empty lots to local markets, perhaps to buy breakfast. Coming out of a side street, one man turns the corner past a house with boarded windows and onto Cranston Street, whistling loudly as he carries what looks like a box of sweet pastry in his hands. Someone shouts from a window above, telling him in colorful terms to tone it down!

Vida.

We walk by Pito’s II Restaurant, and Joann asks me if I know the story behind this place. I don’t, and before I can ask her to tell me, she has her hand on the door to go inside. As we enter, there are a few people speaking in Spanish, ordering breakfast and settling in to eat. The ladies behind the counter seem busy, busy and customers enter steadily behind us, so I tell Joann that we should come back another time to talk to some of the staff. I look around for a business card or take-out menu. There are none.

- Marta

The story continues ➜

Further down Cranston Street, we walk by a storefront where Joann spots a hand-written sign that says: “Vendemos jocotes, nances y ciruelas.” What does that mean?” asks Joann. We both scratch our heads not knowing exactly what those are. We enter.

“Nances are a small, pebble-size fruit found in Central America," say two ladies behind the counter. A man appears from inside one of the aisles and motions us to come look into a freezer, where he searches for a bag. “No hay más,” he says to the lady. “Vamos a tener que pedir más.”

Joann and I wander through the store, chatting with the ladies behind the counter. I learn they are both from Guatemala and their clientele is mainly Mexican and Guatemalan.

I spot a barrel filled with little red chiles and I think about the amazing Salsa de Chile Rojo I can make from these.

I also find some fresh tortillas, tamales, piloncillo and queso blanco. I feel so at home.

Before we finish our walk, we end up at Carmita's. It's now Joann's turn to feel at home.

At this point, Joann is a familiar face to the owner, Carmita herself, because she goes in often. Last time I was there was last October 2018, so I'm not sure if she remembers me. After she greets Joann, she turns to me and she says: "Tu eras de México, no?" I'm impressed as heck!

Joann, who is vegetarian, orders a relleno de papas, ball-shaped mashed potatoes filled with white cheese. I order up an empanada de pollo.

We tell Carmita a bit about what we're doing and about our project. She tells us that, to her knowledge, hers is the only Puerto Rican bakery in Rhode Island. She always enjoyed baking and cooking meals for friends and family and selling it a domicilo, at home. Eventually, her husband convinced her to move out of their home and purchased the business for her. Carmita enjoys talking to her customers and said she's looking forward to hosting our guests on the upcoming neighborhood walking tours.

Don't miss coming with us. Carmita promised to have a lechon, alcapurrias and pastel de tres leches, among other treats!

- Marta

Team Barrio Central Falls met as a group for the first time in early March: pictured above are Stelly DaMoura, Marcela Betancur, and Tatiana Baena all CF residents, plus Edwin Rodríguez, a Brown U student of Salvadorian heritage who volunteered to take notes while walked.

Unfortunately, we had just been hit with a snow storm and there was still several layers of snow and ice on the sidewalks. We meet at Sparky’s restaurant and step off heading south on Dexter Street, towards Central Street.

Along the way, both Tatiana and Marcela point to El Antojo, remarking that it’s one of the few restaurants and also one of the longest standing (14 years) on Dexter Street that has Colombian roots. The conversations include a few “that used to be…” comments, and some funny stories about skipping school to buy candy with friends.

As we turn back heading North, we enter El Salvador Bakery where I see more than just baked-goods: some interesting salsa/chile sauce, frozen pupusas (Edwin shakes his head when I point those out…), Pan Bimbo products (which I’m very familiar with!) and dried fish.

The lady behind the counter eyes us first with amusement but then disappears into the back of the store. Another woman comes out and watches, listens as we talk. My mistake is not going up to her right away to introduce ourselves and explain what we are doing, and so I take the time to do that. She seems satisfied with the conversation and tells me they have been on Dexter Street for nine years. They are Salvadorian owners and opened the store to sell baked goods for the growing Salvadorian community in CF, but they also cater to the high number of Guatemalans in the area. She points to items like nances and ciruelas in the frozen section — same products that Joann and I asked about while on Cranston Street.

After I thank her, we turn to leave, saying we would be back. She nods.

Edwin is not with us as we stand outside, but soon he walks out with a bag of spicy Cheeto-like papitas, along with a big happy look on his face. 😁

- Marta

Today, Teresa Guaba and Candelaria Danicher choose to meet up at La Broa' Pizza. When I arrive, they are sitting in front of one of my most-favorite murals in Providence. It says: La Broa’ - El Corazon de Providence and it features a beautiful brown-skinned woman, who to me perfectly represents the people of the neighborhood.

It’s my first time meeting Candelaria, so we spend a bit of time chatting, switching back-and-froth from Spanish to English. I tell them a bit about the mural art: it was painted by Rene Gómez, who I think is an amazing artist and who I met when he was a high school kid in the 1990s. Rene tells me that he helped design the inside of this popular pizza place, including hanging this amazing and simply made sign above the counter (below).

After chatting with the Dominican owner, Teresa and Candelaria order some pizza slices and I try a freshly-made ham & cheese empanada. We then head out. It had snowed several inches two days before, so the sidewalks were still slippery and not easy to maneuver.

We walk by the newly-refurbished Bomes Theater, which I mention when I give my tours. It looks so beautifully transformed, and we all decide we must take the tour visitors inside.

We circle back on the other side of the street where I find myself in familiar territory because this is the tour I have been giving for a couple of years. I tell them a bit of history behind the Verizon building, Mills Coffee … (you’ll have to join this tour to hear all about that!).

We walk by Yang's Chinese restaurant and Teresa tells me how the owner, who is not fluent in English, can take orders in Spanish. "And her accent is impeccable," adds Candelaria! We go inside whereTeresa picks up a menu, points to the Chicharron de Pollo, and tells me it's their most-popular order. I find it amazing how even this restaurant recognizes who is the main clientele in the neighborhood, and they carry some popular Latin dishes!

The day ends at Food Basket on Ontario and Broad Street. We circle the building to view the two murals on either side, created by two immigrant artists to pay homage to the wonderful diversity of this barrio. We can’t wait to show you!

- Marta